In France the Rollands have five wine estates, and they run a wine analysis lab near Pomerol which employees 12 people, plus four other joint ventures, three in Argentina and one in Spain.

Rolland has denied earning the vast sums he is said to. Pressed for a figure, he said it could be anything from '3,000 to 25,000 euro' per consultancy, depending on the project. There is also, he says, consulting he does for free.

Asked about his investments in South Africa, he points out that he doesn't actually own any properties there. 'As is my habit I have made what one can call a gentleman's agreement with one owner, he produces the grapes and I make the wine.'

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