Cyclone's transformation is no aberration. In 1991, about one in eight bottles of wine drunk in America came from other countries. By last year, even though Americans are drinking more wine, that figure was better than one in four. While much of the increase in wine from other countries is the result of the surge of imports from Australia, it's also part of a larger pattern that springs from Americans' increasingly adventurous wine palates and the spread of democracy around the world.

In country after country from Chile to South Africa to Eastern Europe the barriers to making good wine and exporting it have fallen. The result: A golden period of wine-drinking in which Americans can try interesting wines from all over the world. Not only that, but the international competition has kept prices down, so, as Mr. Esser pointed out, it's also a golden period for wine bargains.

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