Served in 2 ounce tasting portions, each set comprises either two glasses or four glasses of different wines. It's a simple concept, and it has been done before, but Thomas's experience as award-winning sommelier in France and elsewhere allows him to present the wines in sequence according to intensity, taste and density, distinctions rarely seen in the majority of this city's dining venues. And the wines don't clash with one another.

The outstanding wines include a delightful Pinot Noir 2003 from the boutique winery of Thompson Estate in Margaret River, Western Australia. Full of mouth-filling flavours, tight well-balanced tannins and the strong, decadent characteristics of pinot; forest-berries and ripe cherries, this is truly a lovely wine.

Also part of the wine-sets, one of the new Super Spanish wines is Finca Hoya de Cadenas, 2002, Reserva Fermentado Barrica (top quality Reserve fermented in barrel). From Utiel-Requena near Valencia, it is straw coloured with golden highlights. The bouquet is passion fruit and apple with toasty notes, a very refreshing blend of Chardonnay 65 per cent and Sauvignon Blanc 35 per cent.

Continue reading: chinadaily.com.cn