The country's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée classification system, around since 1935, is creaking under its own weight

Believe it or not, even the French have trouble picking out wine. Like non-French consumers, our Gallic friends are known to scan the wine aisle, glassy-eyed, wondering what is what, what goes well with what, and what is any good at all. Incroyable, non?

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