Which brings us to the question, what are the grapes, anyway? For our tasting of eight red wines, there were at least 10 different grape varieties in the mix — Negroamaro, malvasia, frappato nero, nerello cappuccio, nerello macalese, nero d'avola, aglianico and primitivo among them. The winemakers do not feel bound by the stricter rules of Piedmont and Tuscany, with many of the wines classified as humble vino da tavola or the slightly more upscale indicazione geographica tipicia. Instead, there is a happy spirit of experimentation, including the mixing of native grapes and imports such as sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon...

By Peter Burwasser Source : citypaper.net